A Symbol of Culture and Heritage 

The Azerbaijani national costume reflects the country’s rich cultural diversity and deep historical roots. Vibrant colors, intricate embroidery, and luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet often characterize traditional garments. The clothing varies by region but generally includes elements like the chokha (a long coat), kelaghayi (silk headscarf), and embroidered shirts, each holding symbolic meanings. These costumes were historically tailored to signify social status, marital status, and regional identity, with distinct patterns and colors unique to different parts of Azerbaijan. 

The Elements of the Costume 

The kelaghayi, a traditional headscarf for women, is perhaps the most iconic part of Azerbaijani attire, made from fine silk and often adorned with intricate Buta motifs, which are symbolic in Azerbaijani culture. Kelaghayi-making is a UNESCO-recognized craft, preserving ancient dyeing techniques and hand-stamping skills passed down through generations. The scarf is a fashion accessory and carries spiritual and social meanings, often worn during significant life events like weddings or mourning rituals. 

Ed.note: You will find more information on Kelaghayi on our website through three articles on its roots, production, and current purpose. 

Men’s costumes were equally symbolic, typically featuring a chokha, a long, fitted coat adorned with cartridges along the chest, signifying prestige and military readiness. The coat was often worn over a shirt and trousers, completed with high leather boots. 

Regional Variations 

Azerbaijan’s national dress varies across its regions. In the northern region of Ganja, traditional attire tends to feature bold, vibrant colors, while in Karabakh, designs are more subtle, with intricate gold embroidery and softer hues. In Sheki, known for its silk production, local costumes integrate light, flowing silks that represent the region’s cultural heritage. 

Through detailed craftsmanship, Azerbaijani men’s traditional attire showcases the country's deep cultural roots and social distinctions. 

• Ust Koyney (Men's Shirt): The essential base layer, made of coarse fabric, commonly in white or dark blue. 

• Arkhalig (Jacket): A fitted chest-fastened jacket, crafted from materials like silk or velvet, indicating the wearer's social rank. 

• Gaba (Cloak): A luxurious wool or silk cloak symbolizing wealth. 

• Chukha (Coat): A practical detachable coat fastened at the waist. 

• Kurk (Fur Coat): Made of lamb fur, this coat offers both warmth and ornate embroidery. 

• Papakhi (Hat): A sheepskin or felt conical hat, representing Azerbaijani identity and protecting from the elements. 

Azerbaijani women’s traditional dress embodies grace and cultural identity, showcasing centuries of craftsmanship and regional heritage. 

• Charda (Veil): A silk or cotton veil used outdoors, blending modesty with personal style through vibrant colors. 

• Arakhchin (Cap): A silk cap worn under the veil, often adorned with embroidery. 

• Yashmak (Scarf): A scarf covering the lower face, emphasizing modesty. 

• Kurdu (Cloak): A wool or cotton full-body cloak for protection. 

• Chichek (Jacket): A silk or velvet jacket with intricate embroidery. 

• Kyulek (Dress): A flowing silk or cotton dress, pleated to highlight femininity and poise. 

Cultural Revival 

Despite modernization, Azerbaijani national costumes remain a symbol of pride and identity. These garments are now frequently worn during national celebrations, festivals, and weddings, showcasing the country's enduring respect for its historical and cultural roots. Additionally, contemporary designers often draw inspiration from traditional Azerbaijani elements, fusing them with modern fashion trends, thus ensuring the legacy of the national costume endures in the 21st century.